Mixed Climbing - ice rock mixed climbing [Photos]

Mixed Climbing is an emerging sport. It is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing techniques. The climber uses ice axes and ice to catch rock climbing to reach ice waterfalls hanging in midair, or climb the ice wall divided by bare rocks. These types of ice walls were once considered unviable. However, the high-strength, lightweight, dexterous climbing equipment makes some skilled ice climbing enthusiasts free to climb between the ice wall and the rock wall without having to wear ice-grabbing and ice.


Picture: Wang Yunlong

The ice-rock hybrid route may be short and high-intensity, or it may be up to several hundred meters of vertical ice walls and rock walls. The climber must have absolute confidence in his ability and equipment.

Equipment and equipment

Some ice-rock hybrid routes that are close to sports climbing may use ice axes, ice climbing to climb the rock walls, and use hanging pieces as protection. While other ice rock mixing routes may be located at high altitudes, climbers are required to have various skills and equipment for climbing. Basic equipment includes high mountain boots, safety belts, ropes, ice axes, ice grips, protectors, master locks, flat belts, and more. Protective equipment may include rock plugs and ice cones, and sometimes even one or two snow cones are needed.

The ice hail and the ice climbing used for the mixed climbing are the same, but in recent years the climber has started using the wristband hail. In addition, climbers usually abandon the traditional shovel head hail, but use two hammerhead hail, or hail designed specifically for mixed ice climbing. The tip is usually T-shaped, and most climbers will prepare a spare tip.

Since climbers often have to stand on thin ice or rocks in mixed ice climbing, many climbers use single-toothed ice grips. There are also some optional accessories, such as the Spurs.

Line rating

The ice-rock mixing route is usually rated by the M system. For example, the M5's route means that it feels like climbing a level 5 ice in climbing ice, but DRYTOOLING or such techniques are required for climbing. Sometimes, the difficulty level is subdivided into the ice wall section and the mixing section. For example, Octopussy is a route that is rated M8WI5. It includes a very difficult DRYTOOLING route, but once it reaches the ice wall, the ice climbing route is not difficult. Usually WI5 will be omitted because it is not a difficult part, so the difficulty is expressed as M8. Like ice climbing, the difficulty of the ice-rock hybrid route is variable. The ice wall melts and breaks. As the temperature changes, it will change due to climbing. Therefore, the difficulty level of the route should only serve as a reference.

Dry Tooling

Dry Tooling is rock climbing with ice axes and ice.

The shape of the tip is crucial. DryTooling's hail is best made by beveling the barb's anterior teeth with a bevel so that the tips of the cans hook well on the flat edges of the rock wall. You have a variety of ways to use your hail. You can use the tip to hook the small edge of the rock wall, a small crack, or you can hug the side of the rock to the edge of the rock wall; you can hook the hook with a shovel head Hold a small edge, or screw the spade head into the crack; you can insert the hammer into the crack like a rock plug, and sometimes you can use the hammer to hook the edge of the rock wall; you can insert the spatula into the deep seam .

After the hail has been placed, you must slowly add weight to make sure it is solid. Keep the hail still while you are moving to prevent it from slipping. Pay attention to the body should not be too high above the moraine, otherwise it is easy to slip. You can do some practice to increase confidence before actually climbing the ice rock mixed route. However, do not practice in the bouldering area or on the classic climbing route because the tip or claw tip may damage the rock wall. You can even tape the tip of the tape and use climbing shoes to practice in the climbing gym. This helps you to learn to use the skills of hail. For safety reasons, you can remove the hail's shovel head and wrap the hammer with foam or tape.

News - SCOTTMUIR completes the most difficult ice-rock hybrid route in Europe (2005-12-16)

Line name: GAMEOVER
Difficulty level: M13
Location: DRYLANDS near Innsbruck, Austria


Figure: Snowbird Outdoor

This route was first climbed by ALBERT LEICHTFRID in January 2005. This is a very good archway route. The eaves that traverse the top of the cave are a long and continuing difficulty. They end up with the eaves. SCOTT completed the red dot two times after the test line, and almost fell off several times on the difficult point.

In the same area, SCOTT completed HAPPY (M12) and TENSION (M12).

Other climbers at DRYLANDS are also in good condition. FIONA MURRAY completed HAPPY. Her third M10 is her first in Europe. DAVEBROWN also completed the same route, as well as a route FONTOK (M11) with a high elevation angle.

DRYLANDS is a new mixed-climbing route area, which has now concentrated on the most difficult ice-rock hybrid routes in Europe. The southeast wall is 1,300 meters above sea level, and the climbing season is very long, from December to March. The area has many routes with varying degrees of difficulty and is close to other ice climbing resorts. Innsbruck has become the goal of many climbers.

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